ny true fashionista or grandmother will tell you that before the mid-1960's, the majority of clothing bought off the rack was tip-top quality. It has been a continuous passion for many of us to relentlessly scour vintage clothing stores looking for instant access to beautifully made items that no one else will be wearing.
Shopping for vintage requires time, great patience, foresight and a willingness to accept defeat. But when you land those truly one-of-a-kind pieces that rival many of today's most popular designers, your time and money will be well spent. One look at Julia Roberts winning her Oscar for Erin Brockovich in vintage Valentino says it all.
Where to Hunt for Vintage Clothing
Vintage shops will yield the best selection and the highest quality but prices will be higher than consignment shops or thrift stores. You are paying for a knowledgeable staff and a selection that is usually grouped by decade.
A recent trend has seen merchants selling vintage alongside new designer clothing, apothecary items, shoes, specialty soaps, greeting cards etc. This 'Anthropologie' approach to merchandising is charming but the drawback is that the few vintage items stocked are usually given ridiculous price tags so be wary. Consignment stores will have equal quality to vintage shops but thrift stores - with their crammed racks -are where you have to really be a clothing sleuth. In any case still check the item very carefully, as many stores - even those that cater to the rich and famous - do not accept returns. Proceed with caution on eBay as well, and buy only from sellers with excellent long-term feedback and clear photos.
Fine Tune Your Eye for Flaws in Vintage Garments
Labels denoting fabric content will be most likely be missing, so it's up to you to diligently gage the quality of the garment's fabric. Does it drape well? Does it feel good against your skin? Any item that feels coarse or fuzzy should be passed over. Hold all garments up to the light carefully checking for moth holes, tears, sweat stains and worn spots. Check all collars, cuffs, closures and seams. Weak seams and fabric could indicate dry rot. Make sure the hardware on hand bags and belts work properly and check all footwear for cracks.
Plucking a Vintage Find
Big designer names like Mary Quant, Chanel, Vuitton, Dior, Halston and Norell are what you want to look for, but do note that until the mid 1950's most clothing (believe it or not) was made to measure, so definitely do not overlook unfamiliar labels. These garments were made by fashion houses, local seamstress and even department stores. Higher quality is a given, especially if the label is woven and has been completely sewn down.
Another giveaway that your find is of serious quality is the buttons. Jet (a dense black coal that takes a high polish), brass, bone, pearl and the button holes themselves are hallmarks of expert craftsmanship. Details like lining, seams and even dress weights (small metal bits sewn into the hems for better drape) should be examined thoroughly.
Sizing up Your Treasure
If you are petite the vintage world is your oyster, as people were smaller and shorter in the earlier part of the 20th century, but all items should still be tried on and sat down in, which is crucial to a perfect fit. Choice items may have been made in Europe or altered to fit a previous owner. Full skirt and dresses and men's clothing will accommodate taller or curvier shoppers.
